And you thought wine was just for the drinking. Not just north of the Spanish town of Haro, and certainly not on the Feast of San Pedro. Then, on June 29, folks from near and far don T-shirts (white, please) and proceed to load buckets, pails and containers with of all variety of cheap local red wine. Then, they have at it. They even employ old boots to sling the wet stuff, and fill water pistols with viticultural vengeance. The result isn’t exactly a Bacchanalia, but it can be (forgive us) a Haroing experience.
Combatants keep flinging fermented grape juice at one another till everyone turns purple, and then they do it some more. It’s great fun, but you want to make sure you keep your footing about you and don’t fall.
Sited in the province of La Rioja, a region known for its wines, the battle seems a natural. Haro is all about wine. It’s how people make their living around here, how they celebrate new birth, and the passing of life. To chronicle all of this, Haro has a wine museum. It’s worth the visit.
After the battle, after the buzz is worn off and you’ve rid yourself of the color purple, take some time for the sublime. Visit the Basilica of Nuestra Señora de Haro. Its Baroque high alter is a masterpiece. Then there’s the Palace of the Counts of Haro, another local baroque edifice.
Linger a while in this land of wines, vineyards, and vegetable gardens. After the revelers have left, what you’re left with is a pace that’s sedate, one bordering on timeless. After everyone’s gone back home, the regional La Rioja cuisine is somewhat easier access. Beat a path restaurant Beethoven, on Calle Santo Tomàs. A good meal will run you between €20 and €40.
Story by Jerry Chandler
