Harking back to the 1800s when time was taken a little more leisurely, Afternoon Tea arose as so-called ‘filler’ between meals – a little respite to break up, refresh and re-energize between luncheon and dinner times. Now somewhat dated, the tradition has become a treat for everyday Brits – best savored at one of the capital’s swankiest of sites. Scones, clotted cream (usually Devonshire) and fruit (traditionally strawberry) preserves are fairly standard provisions. The works comes as a three-tiered charade, complete with finger-cut sandwiches, cakes as well as scones, all washed down with tea, coffee or Champagne. Just as sir or madam pleases, of course.
Day 1:
Many of the more traditional (read higher-end, old school) outlets are centered round Hyde Park, so we’ll concentrate in that area. Begin around Knightsbridge, where the Natural History Museum, Victoria and Albert Museum and National Art Library offers enough entertainment to while away the morning. Then, with hunger knocking, take your by now probably culture-chattering selves to Egerton House. This five-star homely townhouse is the perfect way to ease into such fanciful affairs. Slightly less showy than the larger outlets, though no less grand, tea is held in their cozy Drawing Room, complete with rich couches, a roaring fire and beautiful chandelier centerpiece.
From there, take a wander back up to the south-side of Hyde Park, dip into the Serpentine Gallery, should you wish, or just splash about in the water, if it’s warm enough.
High on your list of must-see sites – even if you don’t decide to stop – is The Lanesborough. This marvelously rich hotel was built back in 1719 as a grand private residence before becoming St George’s Hospital 50 years later. The 1990s saw it converted and restored to the resplendent grandeur you’ll find today. Hand-woven carpets, antique silk armchairs and magnificent oil paintings are just a few of the jewels in this almighty crown. Its £5000-a-night Royal Suite is seldom occupied (reserved for, well, royalty, one should presume) but the Afternoon Tea has won several UK Tea Council Awards, comes with England’s first and most respected tea sommelier and, more to the point, is far more financially realistic. Be sure to book.
Then, early evening (between 3 and 6pm), try a more contemporary tea. London’s Four Seasons famed Park Lane site offer La Dolce Vita – including Focaccia Al Formaggio and strawberries with Balsamic – in their Amaranto Lounge; an Italian-themed take on this most classic of British treats.
Day 2:
By now you should know all about Afternoon Tea etiquette, so straighten those backs and walk heads-held-high into The Ritz. Well placed for a wander round Buckingham Palace and down towards the Thames, this institution, opened in 1906 is the lexicon of British hedonism. With the feel of a French country house and furnishings in the Louis XVI style throughout, just a step inside is enough to induce raised chins and an air of sophistication. As a member of the Tea Council’s prestigious Tea Guild, The Ritz really does provide the quintessential experience. Up to 17 teas are served in the spectacular Palm Court. Formal dress code comes as standard, gentlemen are required to wear a jacket and jeans or sport shoes are positively banned. With five sittings everyday – 11.30am, 1.30pm, 3.30pm, 5.30pm and 7.30 – and tables booked at least 12 weeks in advance, you’re wise to get in early on this one.
The iconic Savoy should be saved for your final Afternoon Tea soiree. Fred Astaire danced on its roof; Marilyn Monroe drank at the bar and Stravinsky has played at the same piano that remains in place today. As an addition to its own Afternoon Tea offerings, Savoy Tea (Mon – Sun 10am-8pm) is a new bijou store in the Upper Thames Foyer of this riverside resident. Designed to look like London’s Edwardian shopping arcades, hints to the original tea traders from Asia line the walls and you can even watch the pastry chefs and chocolatiers at work. Its beautifully packaged fancies and their accessories – a Savoy china tea service, complete with handmade jams and fresh patisserie – are perfect for a take away treat. A new, rather splendid, ‘Art Decadent Tea’ is also served on a Sunday in the Beaufort Bar – perfect for those darker, later, generally more decadent shenanigans.
